A Hindu Mecca? Or Disneyland?
Until I arrived in India at the end of October 2011, I had never heard of Akshardham. When my cousins asked if I wanted to visit a new temple in Delhi, I unsuspectingly agreed. I really wanted to visit Rajghat and pay my respects to Gandhiji, I said, but I did not mind stopping by a new temple.
I am not religious but Indian temples evoke, for me, a powerful nostalgia. They contain the essence of my early childhood, spent in a dingy gulli, where every stone was covered with saffron-colored paint, where every woman carried oil to the temple of the goddess to protect her children from the scourge of smallpox, where every one woke up to the sound of a bhupali—morning devotional—and went to bed to the tune of a bhajan.
Alas, someone should have warned me that Akshardham lets you bring no food, drink, or anything else inside, not even water. Only in the parking lot did I discover this fact. So I reluctantly entered the temple complex with little more than the clothes on my back. The consequences of Akshardham’s draconian rules would haunt me for the rest of my trip.
The first impression upon entering the gigantic area is one of awe and splendor. There are the coral-colored gopurams (domes), carved with the most intricate of elephants, gods, and fairies. There are the surrounding grounds, displaying statues of pioneers of Indian history. There are the ponds, glittering with fountains. Erected out of sandstone in only five years, the temple uses no steel enforcements, it is said. As I inspected the layers of mortar between stone slabs, I wondered if the edifice would withstand centuries of ravages of earthquakes, pollution, and floods. The website claims that the temple has a tremor-proof, 20-foot-deep foundation, though.
“It has been carved by volunteer artists,” my cousin explained, “and uses traditional Hindu architectural principles.” Indeed the statues are elaborate, so detailed and numerous that after a while your eyes begin to glaze. Elephant after elephant. Apsara after apsara. Krishna after Krishna. Every episode in the Mahabharatha and the Ramayana is depicted here, in tableaus made of stone. There are allegedly 330 million gods in the Hindu pantheon and I would be willing to bet that each one is present here. The inner sanctum is covered from top to bottom in gems and gold. The murtis are draped in stone garments so silk-like, their folds invite one’s touch.
Thousands of visitors come here to pay respects every day and are taken on an elaborate tour consisting of animatronic displays using robotics, even an IMAX-like giant screen movie commemorating the life of a guru named Swaminarayan, whom I had never heard of, but whom the temple commemorates. The movie, which stars a very photogenic young man in the role of the swami and uses all sorts of tricks out of Hollywood, is indeed breathtaking. There is even a boat ride, a la Pirates of the Carribean, in which life in Vedic times is recreated in lifelike dioramas. The Vedic era boasted of higher education in mathematics and science, we are told. Also that Vedic life was replete with cosmetic surgery, nuclear weapons, rockets, and much, much more—to the point where you begin to wish you had lived then rather than now. The tour terminates in a display of dancing fountains representing a Hindu yagna (holy fire).
“This is just like Vegas!” I exclaimed as I faced the splashing waters reminiscent of the Bellagio.
“In the era of video games and television, we have nothing left to show our children,” My cousin said, “So we bring our children here to teach them Hindu values.”
I could see her point.
Why was I so disturbed then? Why did this place seem like religion with a capital R? Why did this display smack of jingoism to me?
I did understand why this monument to Hinduism had been built on the banks of the Yamuna. After all, when all the historic edifices in the capital are monuments to our bygone Islamic rulers, is it not natural to want a memorial to India’s Hindu past? After all, Muslims have their Mecca, Christians have the Vatican, Sikhs have the Golden Temple. Why not us?
Still, I wished that such a monument had suffered from the defect of understatement rather than overstatement. For there is this “over the top” quality to this temple that the ancient caves of Ajanta and Ellora, which I visited for the first time only ten days later, do not suffer from. Nor do the medieval Hindu temples of Bali. Surrounded by lily ponds and colorful gardens, Bali’s temples do not rise above the landscape, but rather merge with it to create an aesthetic so pleasing, one wants to sit in their pagodas for hours and hours. The Meenakshi temple in Madurai, too, never jars the eye. There is a serene quality to these ancient architectures that the Akshardham temple lacks.
What the makers of Akshardham have forgotten is that sometimes less is more.
By the time we had eaten the bad food in the cafeteria—which might have been the cause of one of the worst stomach ailments I have suffered from in my entire life and which made this trip to India hellish for me—and entered the very modern gift shop, I began to wonder, was this really a monument to Hinduism or a money-making machine?
For there were the Swaminarayan dolls and Swaminarayan mugs. There must have been Swaminarayan t-shirts too, though I can’t remember.
I could sympathize with the security at the entrance, which is characteristic of Indian life today; you see it in shopping malls, metro trains, and planes. But what was the logic of not allowing even an apple or a granola bar inside unless it was to cream an extra rupee out of you?
Akshardham was the first inkling to me of a shift in India’s psyche. Days later, I would encounter a group of schoolchildren atop the Daulatabad Fort in Aurangabad, and learn of the rigorous Hindu curriculum in their traditional school. Later still, I would watch a television anchor signing off with a “Jai Hind” and wonder, have we really come this far from Gandhi’s India? And where does patriotism stop and parochialism begin? Where does pride end and egotism begin?
It is perhaps natural that a country threatened with terrorist attacks from its next door neighbors, a country which is still wounded by its colonial past, but which has come to depend on American companies for its livelihood, should search for strength in its ancient religion. I just hope that this turn toward Hindu nationalism does not lead to fanaticism and further schisms in a land with a diverse population.
Sarita Sarvate writes commentaries for Pacific News Service and KQED. Visit www.saritasarvate.com
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Comments
May I suggest a conversion...as there seems to be such self hatred in your essay.
Through conversion you might become a passionate defender of another religion (all taken from elsewhere):
Like Newt - who converted to Catholicism (after three marriages, two divorces and two affairs with younger women working for him), and is now the national defender of this faith.
Mormonism - where there are rooms and chambers that women cannot even see ...let alone enter.
Islam where wearing veils and being denied basic rights changes only when people leave their communities and experience real diversity and democracy.
Judaism - where banks and synogogues work together in great global harmony. One comedian's joke!
Atheism...but that is dominated mostly by men with big egos.
Maybe Communism...which is dominated by actresses who earn copious amount of money while they preach distributive justice like Azmi or Askme or something.
You can convert anytime...and there are plenty of non-Disney world to go to.
Primitive, unevolved or unenlightened people might need Disney or Disney-like venues to feel good or excited or proud. So sad! Or they are being sole a "show" by nuts and crooks and taken for a ride. That is really sad! This requires a serious dialogue on "religion as entertainment, show or distraction"...for people without much!
Why do you make fun of it? Did you grow up in a Buckingham palace? I heard their plumbing is not that good!
Seriously what is the problem here? Seems the author dislikes Hindus celebrating Hinduism and Indians being proud to be Indians. I know she makes a living by decrying India and Hinduism-but why does India Currents give her a platform for such self loathing pieces?. She says "Why did this place seem like religion with a capital R?"-Answer-Maybe because it’s a temple-a place of religion. Would she say the same after a visit to the Jama Masjid, or the Vatican? Maybe I need to remember that in the authors worldview, Hindus need to always apologize for having the audacity to continue to exist. We should all have converted to Islam or Christianity long ago and not be learning about or celebrating Hindu Gods and Godesses. "Why did this display smack of jingoism to me?"-maybe because the temple is in India and unlike the author, the builders seem to be proud to be India and celebrate Indian culture and history? As for comparing Akshardham with Ajanta/Ellora/Madurai temple-every flamboyant new building that goes up is decried by at least a section of people as vulgar and lacking taste. As time passes and folks get used to it they often become celebrated as signature works of architecture. As an author and so called intellectual Savita should at least be aware of that.
Oh...you need to calm down! By taking the bait you are falling into this trap that some are setting. Think, and then know how you are being set up, emotionally provoked or forced to respond in ways that appear "reactive, and falls right into the old argument".
People have the democratic right to poke fun at any religion, and I think there is something terrific in Savita's cultural upbringing, Hindu or not, that has contributed to this "self critique and self mockery". Maybe it is a democratic secularism with an emphasis on Hindu critical thinking or Indian critical thinking or some other critcal thinking.
But there is a difference between "self mockery and self hatred". I sense a self hatred...which is not healthy.
Nothing wrong in conversions and nothing wrong with any critique of any religion. And she is being a good immigrant or a minority by only making fun of what she belongs to.
But I want the critique to be intelligent, insightful and meaningful...not childish and ten-year oldish! Like a teenager going, "Oh my god that is so stinky...", or some such juvenile response.
Did she talk to the builders, funders, the managers and/or the general public that goes, and does not go, to these places? It is all opinions with "that are not even insightful".
May I know how many churches, synogogues, temples, mosques are built in the US? We need some reliable statistics on this - with an accurate cost to build and maintain are. And what the revenue sources. There are maga-churches that bring in millions of dollars, not Rupees or Rupiya (which is peanuts when you do the monetary conversion).
Again...remember the difference between "self mockery and self hatred".
Albert Einstein has said: “Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the former.” This article directly proves Einstein right.
Dear Saritaben,
As a member of BAPS, I would like to apologize for your stomachache. BAPS strives to never have that happen to people.
Please come to our temple at 1430.California Circle, Milpitas CA USA 95035. I am certain you will find the peace that you have experienced in the past. Low-key is the order of the day here.
I am an American of Indian descent. I have never been to India but I am familiar with Indian culture through our temple organization.
You may describe Akshardham in any way you like. Akshardham is meant to inspire people to live more ethical and moral lives. You find it over the top, perhaps. However, let's be honest. Disney is not going to build a similar facility in India. Furthermore, Disney is not going to impart values to our children.
Over 100 years ago, Swami Vivekananda predicted that India's spirit had been long suppressed and that it would rise again. We are seeing that now. Hinduism is meant to coexist with other religions and not suppress them. I believe that Pramukh Swami has never tried to convert anyone as per the command of Sahajaanand Swami.
I would like to share some information with you as sharing is caring and knowledge is power.
http://www.baps.org/ is the main website and can provide many answers for you.
Bochasanwasi Shree Akshar Purushottam Swaminarayan Sanstha (BAPS) is a spiritual and humanitarian Hindu organization with its roots in the Vedas. It was revealed by Bhagwan Swaminarayan in the late 18th century and formally established in 1907 by Shastriji Maharaj.
Founded on the pillars of practical spirituality, BAPS reaches out to address many of the spiritual, moral and social challenges and issues we face in our world. Its strength lies in the purity of its nature and purpose. BAPS strives to care for the world by caring for societies, families and individuals. This is done by individual attention, through elevating projects for all. Its universal work through a worldwide network of centers has received national and international recognition including affiliation with the United Nations' EcoSoC.
The Swaminarayan Sampradaya is a Bhakti Sampradaya, with its roots in the Vedas. As per Bhagwan Swaminarayan's philosophy, God is Supreme, has a divine form, is the all doer and always present on earth. The Jiva, through absolute surrender and attachment toward the Guru, attains the realized state and becomes eligible to offer pure worship to God. Individual jivas never merge nor dissolve into God and neither are they part of God but always subservient to God.
His Holiness Pramukh Swami Maharaj is the fifth spiritual successor of Bhagwan Swaminarayan and the present leader of Bochasanwasi Shri Akshar Purushottam Swaminarayan Sanstha. He leads an austere life of lifetime celibacy, without personal wealth or comfort. Representing the essence of Hinduism, his compassion for humanity, universal wisdom and striking simplicity have touched many individuals, including religious, national and international leaders. But most important is his quiet, undisturbed love for God which rises beyond all borders of nation, race and religion.
BAPS Swaminarayan followers begin their day with puja and meditation, lead upright, honest lives and donate regular hours in serving others. No Alcohol, No Addictions, No Adultery, No Meat, No Impurity of body and mind are their five lifetime vows. Such pure morality and spirituality forms the foundation of the spiritual and humanitarian services performed by BAPS.
Finally, we admit we are not perfect but that we are striving for perfection. Again, we apologize for any inconvenience you have suffered. We will learn from this and try to improve.
This lady looks like a controversial writer who makes people wonder who she is and draw attention to her website, buy posting this sheer nonsense. Just ignore this post or better yet pressure Vandana to ban her from writing here again.
Narayan Swamy, SouthAsiansInUSA.Com 404-663-8183
I am not questioning Sarita's right to criticize or attack any religion. That is fine and welcome. I am questioning her immaturity and amateurishness in the way she critiques, or attempts to, an institution she visited.
She provided little information on why it bothers her, other than its garishness. Does she have deeper issues on this matter? She did not ask the people who visit this establishment why they do so. She rants her personal opinions without deep analysis.
I'd love her to openly discuss "all religions and what they do or don't do for ordinary people like her".
We cannot have an honest discussion on any social issue unless there is mature openness about "self and experience, self and society, self and religion, and self and self".
I'd love for Ms.Sarita to talk about her upbringing, her struggle with her religion and other religions she might have explored...And how she became non-religious. Does that include philosophy, spirituality and alternative beliefs also? Has she embraced rationalism rationally? Has she embraced Scientology with a scientific mind? Is she a clear firm unapologetic atheist, or warm fuzzy agnostic who does not form too many strict opinions when so much remains unknown...Or, is she just a reactionary in an uncertain and a-minority-within-a-minority world.
Kindly explain!
Leisure travel in India seems to be linked to religious pilgrimages. A good hike in the Himalyan foothills to get to Mata Vaisho Devi or Kailash. Locally, in Delhi, the newest tourist destination is the Akshardham Temple (www.akshardham.com). We spent the day there without a single religious ritual or thought. A lot of security screening to get into the complex, and then like a visit to Disneyland, a lot of waiting in queues to get into shows. Some shows are about the sect that uilt the temple, some about the life of their founder, and some about the great heros of Indian civilization from centuries ago and not too distant past, kings (Ashoka, Chandrgupta, Vikramaditya, etc) and scholars (Aryabhatt, Chanakya, Bharat, Tagore, Ramanujan, etc), and scenes of Takshila, the first university. It was more like a trip to a mini Disneyland, without the Disney characters. There was even a big finale at the end of the day with a colorful musical fountain where the water and lights dance to the chants dedicated to Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the preserver) and Shiva (the destroyer), rather like fireworks. The temple is clean, beautiful and has more space than most other places in Delhi. I might go there again just to spend some time in the lovely landscaped gardens when the weather is warmer.
BAPS Akshardham is a Hindu temple. The Murtis of Bhagwan Swaminarayan and our Guru lineage within the main monument have been installed in accordance with traditional Vedic rituals. This fact needs clarification. When I was there, the Pujari performed Arti to the Murtis, and any visitor can perform Abhishek to a smaller Murti of Bhagwan Swaminarayan in a different section of the Mandir. Thus, this is a sacred Hindu site.
Namaste
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